How to Tell If Pearls Are Real: 7 Simple Checks

Pearl Knot Studs with freshwater pearl

Short answer: real pearls usually show small natural variations in shape, colour and surface, have deep, sharp lustre, feel cool before warming against your skin, and show clean drill holes without peeling coating. Imitation pearls tend to look perfectly uniform, with a flat or glassy shine. No single home check is conclusive, so look at several signs together, and for a valuable or inherited piece, ask a qualified valuer or gem lab.

Here's how to check, which popular "tests" to avoid, and what the different types of pearl and imitation pearl actually are.

Real, cultured and imitation: what's the difference?

  • Natural pearls form inside an oyster or mussel without human help. They are extremely rare and mostly found in antique jewellery.
  • Cultured pearls are real pearls grown by an oyster or mussel after a pearl farmer places a nucleus or tissue inside. Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls are all cultured, and almost all pearls sold today are cultured.
  • Imitation pearls are made from glass, shell or plastic beads coated with a pearly finish. They can look lovely and are often used in fashion jewellery, but they are not pearls grown by a mollusc.

Learn more in our guide to types of pearls.

7 ways to tell if pearls are real

1. Look for natural variation

Real pearls are made by living animals, so they're rarely identical. Look closely at a strand or a pair of earrings: you'll usually see slight differences in shape, size, colour and surface. A strand of perfectly matched, flawless beads can suggest imitation pearls, although top-quality cultured strands are also carefully matched.

2. Check the lustre

Lustre is the way light reflects from a pearl. Real pearls tend to show bright, sharp reflections with a sense of depth, as if the light comes from within. Imitation pearls often look flatter, waxy or glassy, with shine that sits on the surface.

3. Look for overtones

Under good light, many real pearls show a soft secondary colour, such as pink, silver, cream or green, floating over the main body colour. Imitation pearls usually show one even colour.

4. Feel the temperature

Real pearls usually feel cool to the touch at first, then warm up against your skin. Plastic imitations often feel room temperature straight away. Glass imitations can also feel cool, so this is a clue rather than proof.

5. Notice the weight

Real pearls often feel slightly heavy for their size compared with plastic beads. Glass imitation pearls can be heavy too, so use weight alongside the other checks.

6. Inspect the drill holes

Look closely at the holes with a magnifying glass or your phone camera. On imitation pearls, the coating may be chipped, flaking or rubbed away near the hole, revealing glass or plastic underneath. On real pearls, the edges are usually cleaner, and you may see the nacre layer.

7. Check the description and the price

A trustworthy seller tells you the pearl type, such as freshwater, Akoya or shell pearl. Very cheap "real pearl" strands deserve a closer look. If a listing simply says "pearl" without detail, ask what the pearls are. You can also compare prices against our guide to how much a real pearl necklace is worth.

"Tests" to avoid

  • The tooth test: rubbing pearls against your teeth can scratch the nacre and leave residue. It's an old trick, but it isn't kind to pearls.
  • Rubbing pearls together hard: friction can scuff the surface of real pearls.
  • The burn or lighter test: heat can damage real pearls and melt imitations. Never use flame.
  • Scratching with a knife or pin: this permanently damages the surface, whatever the pearl.

When to ask a professional

If you have an heirloom, a piece you're planning to sell, or one that needs insurance, take it to a qualified jewellery valuer. Gem laboratories can also confirm whether pearls are natural or cultured using X-ray imaging, which home checks can't do. A professional valuation is the only reliable way to know what a valuable piece is worth.

Does imitation mean "bad"?

Not at all. Glass and shell pearls are used in a lot of beautiful fashion jewellery, and they're often more affordable and lighter on the budget for statement styles. What matters is knowing what you're buying. At Lyastone, every product page lists the pearl type and materials, so you can choose with confidence.

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Frequently asked questions

Are freshwater pearls real pearls?

Yes. Freshwater pearls are genuine cultured pearls grown in freshwater mussels. They're more abundant than saltwater pearls, which makes them more affordable.

Do real pearls feel gritty?

Real pearls often feel very slightly textured when rubbed together gently, while imitations feel smooth. However, rubbing can scuff pearls, so it's best left to professionals rather than used as a home test.

Can real pearls be perfectly round?

Yes, high-quality cultured pearls can be very round. Natural variation is a clue, not a rule, which is why it's best to look at several signs together.

Explore more in our Pearl Necklace FAQ and learn how to clean and store your pearls.